Cortina d'Ampezzo Archives - Climbing coaching Klemen Bečan

06.10.2024

Cinque Torri, best summer climbing destination

Cinque Torri- Summer climbing holiday

This Summer we spent some time in the Dolomites and had a great chance to coach on Cinque Torri. This amazing rock formation is located at an altitude of 2137 meters with five main pillars, but mainly there are more than five towers spread out. The towers can also be reached by taxi-Neveta-black VWT5 (9€ one way), and chairlift (price is 18-24€, depending on the month) or by foot (1 hour) from the main parking. July and August are the best months for climbing there, with warm temperatures and a bit of wind, and if the sun is too strong, there are plenty of routes in the shade. The view from Cinque Torri is incredibly stunning everywhere you look.

The biggest area for climbing is Torre Grande, where you can climb on the North, South, East, and West face. We were climbing on the South and west face and can say there are the best routes on Cinque Torri graded from 6a to 8a+. The rock is excellent and the moves are incredibly nice on pockety and crimpy sharp holds.

On Cinque Torri, you can try harder routes too, like 8b.

Torre Grande, South face. In the background, there is Lastoni di Formin.

Multipitche routes, like Via Normale on each tower, are famous.

When the summer heat arrives in the valley, it’s the best thing to go to a high mountain, so Cinque Torri right place to be. We were lucky with the weather this year, so we could climb all day in the sun. This time we chose the Torre Grande, south and west face. On the South face, the rock is more orange in color, and on the west face is more greyish. Both of the walls are very good quality of the rock.

Torre Grande, South face, is a very solid and great climbing route.

Torre Latina is one smaller tower with nice easier routes, graded from 4c to 6a and the sun hits only in late afternoon.

When you get to the parking lot, with lots of cars, traffic, and people everywhere, you think, that up there in the mountains will be lots of people around. On climbing walls there few people, the rest is spread out the mountains. Climbers are not the only visitors there, hikers and others come to visit the open war museum remaining from World War 1 with bunkers and trenches. Hiking around towers is quite easy and suitable for families with kids.

Cinque Torri is one of the best summer climbing destinations for everyone who loves to be in nature, or just hike around pillars and explore an open museum with bunkers.

We took two groups for a climbing day there, and we can not describe how much they loved that landscape and climbing on such good rock with the most beautiful view in the Dolomites.

Until next time.

Anja

Posted by Klemen Bečan Cinque Torri Climbing climbing coaching Climbing destination Coaching Cortina d'Ampezzo Dolomiti

22.08.2023

Summer time in Dolomites with family part 3

Active holidays in the Dolomites, climbing, and hiking

Rock climbing in the region of Cortina d’Ampezzo

I promised a blog post about climbing in the Dolomites in summer. This time I am writing about climbing in Cortina d’Ampezzo. Cortina is situated even further north of Agordo and Belluno and it’s still in Veneto province. Around this little town there are beautiful mountains with the most popular climbing with trad and sport multi-pitch routes in Tofana di Rozes, Tre Cime, Cinque Torri, Picolo Lagazoi, and Lastoni di Formin.

There are also very good crags with single-pitch routes, some hidden in the forest or situated high up in the mountains which are perfect for summer . And what kind of rock is there? It’s Dolomite with a very good quality of stone. Climbing in this region is usually on very nice slabs, or vertical technical routes, and some steep or even overhanging routes with nice shiny pockets of crystals , so basically there is very good friction for climbing.

A few crags we climb;

1.Volpera crag is located 5 kilometers north of the town of Cortina. There are big boulders spread out over the forest with different styles of climbing. You can climb on very steep short routes with pockets or very long routes, mostly face climbing on good holds and crimps. One sector was even possible to climb in the rain.

A similar crag is 2.Campo, which is basically in the same forest, just parking is in a different location and the approach is from below, within 7 minutes from the parking lot.

Hiking day; There is not just about climbing in the Dolomites. Mountains offer lots of hiking trails, which are perfect to hike for all kinds of goals. And with a little kid it is perfect to go with a cable car and then hike on high mountains. We choose the mountain Lagazuoi, where the cable car runs from Passo Falzarego and goes on 2700m, and from there, you walk to the top for about 20 min, and it’s the perfect walk with kids and families.

3.Crepe de Oucera Basse is a vertical wall with lots of routes graded 5a and 7b, most of the routes are 6b-6c, 30 – 40meters high. Easy 5 minutes approach and you get in one of the best crags in Dolomites for these grades. It’s northeast, so it’s perfect for a summer climbing spot. The routes are amazing, with pockets, crimps, juggs and great friction gives you lots of endurance training. A little bit further is 4.Crepe de Oucera Alta, which has longer and more steep routes, up to 8b+. The wall is south-orientated, so late afternoon is already in the shade, and at an altitude of 1700m. The routes here are very technical and a bit hard.

Crepe de Oucere Basse.

Crepe de Oucere Alta

A very nice and beautiful spot to visit is the heart of the area is 5.Cinque Torri, which is also great to hike around these towers. On these towers, there are sectors with single-pith routes and multi-pitch routes as well. Routes are a bit sharp and more alpine style but worth visiting, climbing, and enjoying the view of the mountains. It’s one of the best views in Dolomites from towers and climbing there is just a unique experience. The only downside is, that you must walk or take a cable car, or even a taxi from lower parking. You still can drive up with the small car but between 9:30-15:30 the road is closed, which makes sense because there is not much parking space above.

Cinque torri

Cinque torri -Massi west face

Torri Latina in Cinque torri

Cinque torri

Dolomiti mountains, Cinque torre. — the view on Cinque Torri.

Cinque torri -Massi west face

Cinque torri -Torri Grande west face

In this region, we must mention the crag 6.Piccolo Lagazuoi and 7.Sass de Stria, with beautiful routes for beginners and gives you the real feeling that you are climbing in big mountains, even if there are only single-pitch routes. There are a few crags around Passo Valparola, like Salares, and Sestas, which we must visit for our next trip. These crags are at an altitude of more than 2000 m, so the weather forecast must be stable to visit these sectors.

Sass de Stria

Sass de Stria-east face

There are a few crags 25 minutes from Cortina which is in Valley Pusteria, direction north. The most attractive are 8.Franchi and 9.Landro Classic. These sectors are also good with a child, with a shorter approach and flat under the wall.

Leandro classic sector

Leandro classic

Rest days ;

So you have a few suggestions for summer in Dolomites. For the rest of the days we visited Tre Cime, then Mondo Bimbo for the most attractive playground for kids with the longest slide in the world , then Earth pyramids of Platten within 1hour from Cortina d’Ampezzo.