Climbing in Kyparissi

With only a 1-hour drive south from Leonidio, you reach the village of Kyparissi with approximately 13 sectors with 400 routes of all kinds of styles and grades for every climber. Most sectors are in the shade, lying beside the beach. Babala, Jerom's house, and Psilovrachos sectors are situated high up in the mountains at 700 meters above sea level, where you have pleasant windy conditions. So the best climbing season is in spring and autumn when the temperatures are cooler. In winter, there are too many rainy days, so it's better to go to Leonidio.

Babala wall

The most impressive Babala cliff lies high up in the mountain at 700m above sea level and has gorgeous long tufas in the world. It is a great challenge for advanced and best climbers. It's the perfect place to have a climbing course to learn climbing on tufas. Babala also attracts others to see the impressive peace of nature. There is a lovely path to reach the wall, which leads to village Babala and it is perfect for a hiking day.

Watermill wall and other sectors

Another world-class sector is Watermill, with easy access and routes suitable for every climber with different styles, climbing on a grey vertical wall and orange overhanging tufas. The watermill sector is one of the best climbing areas on Peloponnese. Besides this sector, there are also sectors for families, like Kastraki, Vlychada, and Playground, which are well-protected and perfect for beginners.

What is so special about the Kyparissi? 

When you get there, you are just amazed by the beauty of nature and the clear sea. The rock quality is so good that you don't want to leave the place, and you enjoy a peaceful environment with lots of fun on incredible routes.

Kyparissi has enormous potential for new routes. The first routes climbers bolted 15 years ago; at that time, not many climbers visited this place. Since the 2015 Kyparissi festival, climbers have started to come back and continue developing the area. In spring 2021, we added a few new routes in Watermill. We started developing an entirely new sector- "Woaw cave" in the canyon, which has 3 beautiful routes on tufas and is a perfect alternative when Babala is wet.

Day 1: You will arrive at the destination and settle down. In the afternoon, we have a brief presentation of the program and discuss your wishes and goals for the climbing week.

Day 2: The first day of climbing coaching is getting used to the rock and style and checking, learning safety knots (if necessary), checking correct belying. You will climb more accessible routes, and we will try to improve foot techniques for climbing for better clipping positions.

Day 3: The following day of climbing coaching is all about learning the tufa climbing technique. Not everywhere in the world, you will learn that. It is exceptional to use the body and legs, with lots of twisting and knee-bars, sometimes even hill-hooks and hip-hooks. Tufa technique is an incredible way of climbing, and it's beneficial when the climbing starts to be overhanging.

Day 4: You will learn how to climb more challenging routes with the redpoint approach step by step. You will know how to do visualization for the redpoint, which is part of mental coaching. The red point is not only climbing but also falling coaching. It is part of the game and learning process for gaining better performance in the working route.

Day 5: Rest day is part of training, so that we might take one as well. Not necessary for having a complete rest day; we might still do some running and yoga in the morning and swimming or easy climbing in the afternoon. It also depends on the group and their needs and wishes. One of the rest day activities is climbing without hands or using fewer hands, toprope of course. These skills are excellent for learning how to be efficient, improving climbing techniques for more challenging routes, and having fun.

Day 6: We will introduce you to on-sight climbing.You are learning the proper approach of on-sight attempts for challenging goals, then learning how to read the rock and climb it. You will learn how to find suitable positions to clip and how to climb 100% committed.  We will work on the process from mental training and technique coaching-trying hard in the attempts.

Day 7: We will return to your redpoint project to test your head and power. You are learning how to mentally prepare for sending the projects and the proper mindset for this day. And also, not only is sending a reward, but the process should be the goal that motivates us.

Day 8: The final day or more relaxed day for you will be climbing without pressure from us. You choose whatever you wish that day to climb. You must enjoy and try to climb as much as your head and muscles let you. We can repeat your projects, foot and hand technique, mental coaching, falling practice, or hang out in climbing crags and have fun with no stress.